Lekipman Tradisyonnel Lakwizin Kreol
All these utensils and equipment listed below represent pictures of my life growing up with mum and aunty Margot in their respective kitchen. Whether it was the sound of coconut being grated or the aroma of a fresh bouyon kordonien slowly simmering in the early evening, these recollections always send me into a wave of nostalgia. Mum’s and aunty Margot’s kitchens fell silent many years ago. But their kitchens live on in my heart.
The traditional cooking equipment and utensils used in the early days were numerous and were ‘borrowed’ from the different influences and traditions of our ancestors from the different corners of the world. Some are still being used to-day and a typical example is the coconut bench grater.
I have attempted below to describe most of these equipment and utensils and I have taken the liberty to classify them under their Creole name with their corresponding English description.
Bidon
The bidon was a container made of wood in which liquid as well as non-perishable goods like rice and lentils were stored. The expression ‘bidon’ was also used in Seychelles to describe someone who drinks a lot, ‘I bwar parey en bidon’. The word is derived from an old French word meaning a lie or something false.
Biyo
This is the butcher’s block that occupied a prime location in a traditional kitchen, made from a trunk of a local hardwood such as casuarinas or takamaka. Some biyo had legs while others were tall enough to seat on the ground.
Bwafe
This is a term used to describe timber that is prepared as firewood. It originates from the French term bois feu, literally meaning wood for fire. It was usually made from hard wood and about half a meter long. The bwafe was usually stored under a shed so that it did not get wet . It was stacked neatly in between two vertical sticks firmly embedded in the ground and this was called a kord. The term Kord originates from the word ‘cord’ which is in fact a unit of measurement used to measure firewood in the USA and Canada, approximately 3.62 cubic meter. The name cord probably comes from the use of a cord or string that is used to measure it.
T he art of choosing the firewood to match the food being cooked is now gone and forgotten. For example, firewood from the lime tree or cinnamon tree was the perfect choice for cooking a curry as the incense from the timber added that extra subtle touch of flavour. When cooking rice the wood from the guava tree was preferred as it has a neutral smell and flavour. If a very smoky flavour was required, coconut husks was used. Bwafe has more or less disappeared from the kitchen and has been replaced by gas and electricity.
Boukan
The boukan originated from the French word boucaniers or boucan meaning wooden grill used for smoking. The boukan was and is still being made from the green mid-rib of the coconut leaf from which the leaves have been removed and along which a slit is made. It is tied initially at one end to stop it from splitting completely. It is about a meter long and acts as a grip. Fish, especially mackerels, are skewered from head to tail and placed five or six in a row into the slits. Once all the fish have been inserted in the slit, the other end is tied so that the fish is held tightly.
It is critical that the fish is held tight because the boukan is usually turned a few times so that the fish can be grilled evenly and facilitate the basting of both sides of the fish with the prepared marinade. Other types of non-toxic timber can also be used to make the boukan but the coconut mid-rib is the preferred choice because it is easily accessible and most importantly it does not burn that easily because of its high moisture content.
The smoke is obtained from the use of coconut husks and charcoal. The fish, which is usually well seasoned with spices and chilli, oiled and brushed with lime juice is laid approximately one third of a meter over the smoking embers. This is usually achieved by placing some stones at opposite end of the smoking embers and resting the boukan on the stones. If the fish is to be used the next day it is not fully cooked, but only hot smoked.
Foye
The hearth was the cooking area in the traditional kitchen. It was an elevated section built of granite and concrete or coral bricks and lime . The cooking pots would sit on three or four stones or on trivets with wood fire underneath.The trivet was used to elevate pots from the flame of an open fire. Trivets usually had three legs and would hold only one pot but some had four legs on which more than one pot were placed.
Above the hearth there was usually some chicken wire or small wooden beams from which salted fish , sausages or pork lard were hanged for slow smoking. The traditional kitchen had no chimney and because of its large windows, the smoke created dissipated very quickly.
Ganmel
A ganmel was a container looking like half of a barrel that was used to carry as well as store water for domestic use as well as to store foodstuffs for cooking. The word originates from the French word ‘gamelle’ meaning a metal container used to carry food or from which one can eat his meals. It is a term that is currently used for food containers for cats and dogs!
Gargoulet
The gargoulet is derived from the French word gargoulette meaning a gurglet. It is an earthenware water container that keeps water cool. Gurglet usually has a spout and a handle, but most that were used on the islands had neither spout nor handle but had a long neck. It was a very handy utensil in days gone by, because the water that evaporates through the pores of the container would cool down the remaining water inside.
Gardmanze
The tiffin or tiffin box is basically a food carrier usually made of stainless steel. It normally comes in two to three tiers, while the most elaborate ones usually come in four tiers. The most bottom tier is usually the biggest one and is usually used for rice. The meat or fish dish goes in the second tier and the chutney in the third. Tiffin carriers are opened by unlocking a small catch on either side of the handle.
It was once a very popular way to carry lunch that was prepared early in the morning and taken to the workplace or even to school. Although still very popular in Asia, it is now not seen in Seychelles, sadly replaced by take away boxes!
Kafoul
The kafoul is a recipient that is made from the coconut shell. It is usually made from the part of the shell that does not have the eyes as this is the stronger part of the shell. After the coconut is husked, it is split in half and the flesh removed. The kafoul is cleaned and all rough edges removed. It was extensively used in early days as a mortar to crush garlic, chillies and other spices, as well as a recipient in which kalou or toddy and baka , fermented cane juice, was served.
It was also used to serve meals to the plantation workers. It was a hardy piece of equipment and easily cleaned. It is unfortunately not used any more in the modern kitchen.
Kalay
The wok is a wide pan that has smoothly curved base and sides. The Chinese introduced this utensil to the Seychelles and it is the perfect pan for stir-frying. Deep-frying is also effectively and safely done in the wok, because the surface is wide and there is less risk of bubbling oil spilling over.
Kalbas
This was a water recipient made from the hardened, dried skin of the bottle gourd. To make the kalbas, the gourd must be harvested when perfectly ripe. The flesh is then removed and the skin dried out in the sun. The Kalbas was used to carry water when someone had to go away from the house either to go fishing , work in the fields or for any activity that took someone far from a water source.
Kalou ek Pilon -Pti
The pestle and mortar is an essential tool in any kitchen, usually of two sizes and traditionally made out of hard timber. They are now also made in stone and ceramic. Ceramic mortar and pestles are capable of grinding spices very finely, but they’re also more fragile than other types.
Wood mortar and pestles are durable, but they’re also slightly porous, and subject to stains. It’s also possible for the flavour of one spice to stay present in the mortar between uses, tainting the flavor of the next spice you grind. Stone mortar and pestles also grind very finely, but unless they’re conditioned properly, fine particles of stone can get ground into the spices
The smaller size is used to pound spices and herbs. The Creole cook would prepare spices only when needed. Consequently, a pestle and mortar would be used for the preparation of almost every meal. The mortar, which works best when it is less than a third full, is usually placed on a firm surface, low enough to allow the right pressure to be applied on the pestle. You can use the mortar and pestle to grind, pound and crush.
The grinding technique is ideal for most spices you’ll use in baked goods, sauces and other dishes. You can grind to a coarse, medium or fine consistency.
Kalou ek Pilon – Gros
The larger version of the Kalou ek pilon was used for pounding grilled coffee beans to be used in our local percolator called lagreg, or also to pound dried, grated cassava into a powder to make cassava biscuits or galettes or different cassava breads.
Kokosye
This is a container made out of the coco de mer nut sawn vertically- coco scier. It was a very versatile utensil in the kitchen. Due to its hard shell, it was used as a container to pound garlic, ginger or chilli. It was used as a recipient to remove grit from rice and lentils or as a container to carry water, especially for cooking purposes. The kokosye was also used by fishermen to bail out water from their traditional pirogues.
Kornin
The kornin, or cornet in French, is a paper cone made from newspaper and glued together with rice conjee. It was used by shopkeepers as a container in which sold items like sugar and salt, as well as granm would be put in, to be taken home.
Lagreg
A traditional coffee percolator, made out of galvanised aluminium, consisting of two main sections. The bottom section is a container with a spout and a handle into which the coffee drips when percolating. The top section has a perforated base, a handle to facilitate its removal from the base when hot, and a lid.
Ground coffee is placed in the top section and hot water is poured over the coffee to start the percolation. The lid is finally placed on top to keep in the heat. Derived from café à la grèque, meaning Greek Coffee.
Lantonwanr
This is a funnel that was traditionally made from a half coconut shell, known as kafoul. A small bamboo tube was inserted in one of the eyes. It was used in the making of black pudding and also in the filtering and bottling of fresh toddy.
Larap
Most homes now will have a version of the box grater with different surfaces, but the original grater used by the Creole cook was a flat one consisting of a metal sheet punctured with rows of small holes. The top of the grater is nailed to a piece of plank of similar width but slightly longer to give the extra support when used. It was either curved or nailed flat.
Larap Koko
The coconut grater consists of a small bench to which a sharp rounded and serrated piece of metal is attached. The coconut is split in two and one sits on the grater to grate the flesh of the half coconut against the sharp metal tip. This little tool has caused me so much pain in my younger days since I had to grate on average up to eight coconuts daily for use in cooking or chicken feed.
Any slip in concentration can result in one grating the palm of one’s hand. Believe me it does hurt!! The Creole cook uses a lot of coconut milk in his kitchen. He uses it in curries, daubes and also to prepare fresh coconut oil.
Lavann
Originating from the French word vanner meaning to sift or winnow. This is a fairly flat basket made out of thin strips of woven bamboo. The main purpose of this basket was to sift grit from unwashed rice and lentils. It was also sometimes used to carry and display fruits and vegetables.
Lespatiy
A big spatula usually made out of bamboo used when cooking in bulk such as making pork crackling.
Marmit
The cast iron pot is an absolute necessity if one uses a wood fire. The pots are usually black with three legs of about 4 cm long and two ears. The legs allow the pots to sit on a flat surface. Otherwise, they would fall over since they have a rounded bottom. The two ears are used to lift the pots from the fire, using two sticks made out of hard wood that are inserted in the ‘ears’.
Alternatively, one can use a type of steel handle with hooks into the ‘ears’. The pots are ideal for pot-roasting as they distribute the heat more evenly than aluminium ones.
Pike Bwadir
A dead tree made from the bwadir tree ( Canthium bibracteatum) that was cleaned up of its bark and leaves and ‘planted’ in the yard of many houses, usually close to the external kitchen. Cleaned toddy or milk bottles were inserted in its branches to be dried. Sometimes other recipients like enamel mugs were also placed in the tree to be dried and aired. The bwadir tree was used because, as the name, meaning hard wood, implies, it is a tough tree and has many small branches and does not rot that easily. It is also known as pike kalou.
Plak ek Ros ( Ros Kari)
The curry stone is a flat grinding stone and a roller used mainly by Seychellois of Indian origin to grind spices for curries. The spices are placed on the rock and the roller is pushed across them with a grinding action. Usually both hands are used to apply pressure on to the roller. With a flick of the wrists the roller is pulled back over the spices until they are ground to the right consistency. The roller is never rolled like a rolling pin.
Poban
A poban is is a small jar with a lid made in glass or ceramic in which jam, sugar, salt, pickles and spices were stored. In some household it was also used to store tobacco that was shaved from the karot taba ( preserved and cured tobacco leaves kept in banana leaves shaped like a big carrot).
Potis
An earthenware pot used to store and preserve salted meat. In the absence of a refrigerator one way to preserve meat was to salt it and the pot was a very handy utensil to have because it kept the salted meat away from pests and rodents.
The salted meat was usually kept in the potis for letan dir, only to be consumed when other sources of protein became rare and this was usually during the South East Monsoon when the pirogues could not venture out to sea. Usually during the SE monsoon the sea can become too rough for the small pirogues and consequently fish can become hard to get.
Reso
This traditional piece of equipment , also known as coal pot, is in effect a small portable stove used to boil water or cook small dishes. Used mainly for cooking in the house, the fuel used is mainly charcoal made out of hardwood. The reso, made out of cast iron, is approximately 25cm high and 25cm wide. The top part is shaped like a rather wide and deep bowl at the bottom of which holes have been bored.
This bowl is welded onto a hollow cylinder of about 15cm wide. It is partly open at one side of the base, which is also welded on to a flat base of about 20cm wide for stability. The hole in the side serves two purposes – it creates the draft that keeps the fire burning and is the access through which the ash can be removed.
The cooking utensil sits on a circular grill inside the bowl. The reso does not hold a lot of coal, thus it does not get very hot. In this way, it offers more of a slow-cook meal experience, enabling the deep, rich flavours and nutrients of your dish to shine through. The earthy, smoked flavour from the coals provide a nice added bonus. The reso was also used to heat up the hand iron when ironing clothes.
Sopin
The sopin, originating from ‘chopine’ in French, was half a bottle or boutey used to carry liquids such as oil, toddy, rum, as well as fresh cows milk.
Tanmi
Found in the coconut trees in between the leaves, this ‘cloth’ is a naturally woven fibre and is very strong. The Creole cook uses it to press milk out of grated coconut or juices out of vegetables or green fruits being prepared for fresh chutneys. When it wears out, one only has to replenish from a coconut tree by chopping off a piece, washing it, trimming it to size and it is ready to be used.
Topet
The topet , originating from ‘ topette’ in French, was a small spirit bottle, mainly brandy . It was also used to describe any small glass or plastic container of other types of spirits.
Touk
This is a three stone trivet that was used either for cooking in the open air or on a hearth. It was the cast iron pot that was usually placed on the touk. The word is derived from the Malagasy work toko meaning a three stones cooking place.
Twarpye
As the Creole word implies, the trivet is a three-legged triangular metal support on which a cast iron pot would sit with a wood fire underneath. It would usually be located on the hearth. The three legs are about 10cm high. Apart from being used to support the pot during the cooking process, it is also used as a stand for hot pots or pans, protecting the surface of the table from being scorched especially as most tabletops were made of timber.
Other utensils found in or next to a traditional kitchen include:
Lanmok ek Lasyet Emaye
Enameled mug and plates were very popular on the islands. There are many reasons for this. First they were reasonably cheap compared to ceramic plates, they were longer lasting even if at time the enamel will break off. They will not rust as the islands being small, the sea sprays travel far inland and anything metal ultimately rusts if not constantly washed in fresh water.
Touk Delwil
A small container in which used oil was traditionally kept. The oil was not thrown away. If it was rancid, it was heated and a piece of fish was fried off to render the oil good .
Bouson Koko
A plug cut out of the coconut husk. A sharp knife is required for this process because coconut husk is not easy to cut. The plug was used to plug concrete sink or the baye, as well as drain holes of pirogues.
Labour Koko
Coir , or coconut fibre, is a natural fibre extracted from the husk of coconut and used to clean plates and pots. They served the same purpose as a sponge or scrubbing pad. The soap that was used was called savon blanc a very crude soap that was rough on the skin made locally and used only for the cleaning of plates and pots. There was no washing liquid then. The coir is also used in products such as ropes, floor mats, doormats, brushes and mattresses.
Tant Vakwa
A local bag made out of braided pandanus or vakwa leaves. The leaves are picked, the thorns removed, and they are cut into strips that are left in the sun to dry. Once dried, each strip is softened by the use of a knife and then braided into bags and hats.
The waxy covering on the leaves makes them attractive for bags because of their water-resistant surface. This was the bag you carried with you when you went to the market or shopping. This was in the days when plastic bag was not yet known. Talk about being environmentally friendly bags! Now that the use of plastic bags are being restricted, they are now making a come back.
Balye Zig
Balye zig is a broom made from the mid rib of the leaflets of the coconut frond. The green of the leaflets is stripped away, leaving the rib or veins which are tied together to form a broom or brush. The balye zig is used to clean outside of the house including the yard.
Balye Fatak
Balye fatak is made from the dried hollow flowering stem of the Guinea Grass. The seeds are removed for the flowering stem which are then neatly tied together to form the broom. It is a soft broom and used mainly to clean inside the kitchen and house. The local broom has no stick attached to it. The length of the broom is the length of the flowering stem. Some imported version have a stick attached to maker it longer.
Bikaw
The bikaw or cleaver was made out of steel and was very heavy. It was made by the local blacksmith and forged from an old leaf spring from a large truck . The blacksmith or forzron who used to make most of the knives in my village was a man nicknamed tortue. He had an old forge made out of stone and bricks that had a bellow system.
A forge of this type is essentially a hearth or fireplace designed to allow a fire to be controlled such that metal introduced to the fire may be brought to a malleable state . The bellow or blower forces air into the fire to makes it burn hotter. It was a hot environment.
Gran Kouto ek Kouto Kalou
The gran kouto was used most in the plantation and for picking up of coconuts. The kouto kalou was a smaller knife used only for the tapping of toddy. This knife was always kept razor-sharp and kept away from young kids.
The knife has to be razor-sharp because the toddy tapper has to cut through the unopened flower spadix which is very tough. He requires to have a very smooth surface because this is where the toddy is expected to ooze and trickle out.
Ladal Delo
Ladal were bamboo pipes traditionally used as water conduits to many homes on the granite islands. It relied on gravity for the water to flow from the source to the home and were up to a few kilometres long. The source was a usually from a river up in the hills. There were two main types of bamboo pipes.
One was the open bamboo channel made by splitting the bamboo in half, removing the nodes and taping the water at source. This method was cheaper but had a few disadvantages. The water flowing in the channels was exposed to the elements thus increasing the possibility of contamination. Furthermore it got blocked with leaves and had to be cleaned up almost daily.
The second method was leaving the bamboo whole, but the node walls had to be removed to allow the water to flow through. The node walls were removed by making a small cut at the top of the node and cutting away the wall. This left a whole at every node. They were most of the time left as is or covered by small piece of coconut tammy cloth that was strapped on the pipe by a piece of rope made from bwa var or sea hibiscus.
The pipes were secured on top of a series of timber support about three meters high. There was no tap at the end of the pipe, therefore, the water would continuously flow in to the bay which was a very large water container made up of concrete or half of a wine barrel or half of a diesel drum that was located just outside the kitchen. When the bay was full, the water would overflow into a wet area at the back of the bay, an area where yam and watercress were grown.
Bay
The bay was a very large water container made up of concrete or half of a wine barrel or half of a diesel drum that was located just outside the kitchen. This was where all the cleaning of the fish was done as well as where all the washing up of plates and pots were carried out. The water, which was sourced from small streams up in the hills, was supplied by bamboo pipes or ladal which then gave way to polythene pipes. Next to the bay was a table, the top of which had chicken wire, on which all the kitchen utensils were left to dry after having been washed. The bay is derived from the French word baille which is a word used mainly in the marine environment to describe a container that is used for different purposes including holding water to wash the deck, storing the anchor line, storing tools for the boat as well as a container in which to have a bath. In fact as a little kid, I used to enjoy having a bath in the bay we had behind our house when we lived at Nouvelle Découverte, a small village on Praslin Island.
Bouywar
This is the old kettle that was placed directly over a fire either on a hearth a reso or a touk. One drawback with this kettle was that the handle got very hot and that you had to use a rag or cloth to remove the kettle from the fire.
Danmzann
The danmzann is a word that is derived from the French word dame-jeanne. It is a glass container with a large body , a flat bottom and small neck, enclosed in wickerwork with handles. The wickerwork acts like a protection when the bottle is moved. The danmzann was used in Seychelles as a container in which crushed sugar cane juice was fermented to become baka.
The name ‘dame –jeannne’ apparently originates from a French Legend about Queen Jeanne of Naples who took refuge in the home of a glass blower in Provence on a stormy night in 1347. The following day, she asked to be shown how he made his glassware, and, because he was so nervous in the presence of royalty, the glass blower rather overdid the blowing, and created an enormous bottle with a capacity of ten liters. It caused so much admiration among those present that he decided to start manufacturing more of them and wanted to call them Queen Jeanne, but the queen very modestly suggested Dame Jeanne instead.
Source: Wikipedia
Lalanp Bobes
This was an oil or petrol lamp that was made out of bottle or a tin or even a small jar. It had a wick inserted into a hole in the top. This lamp produced a lot of carbon and this was the lamp I grew up with before we progressed to a hurricane lamp or fannal.
Fannal
The hurricane lamp is a type of lamp that uses kerosene or petrol as we called it then, as a fuel. It has a wick or mantle as light source, protected by a glass chimney or globe which was designed to protect the flame even in high winds. This lamp was very popular all over the island for the simple reason that it would stay alight even on windy evenings.
It was a portable lamp that was used on table at dinner time , hand-held when going somewhere at night and for any other task done in the evening where a light was required.
Kolmann
The Kolmann got its name after Coleman which was a brand of lamp that is still being used every now and then especially during night picnics. It is a pressurized mantle lamp containing a gas generator and require preheating the generator before lighting. An air pump is used to deliver fuel under pressure to the gas generator. This lamp was used by Seychellois who were well off because it was quite expensive to buy and maintain. Lighting one was quite an intricate process. First, one had to check the mantle. If the lantern did have mantles installed or the old ones had a hole in them, they were installed or replaced.
The next step was to burn the mantle. One would hold a match or lighter, just beneath the mantle until it started to burn. The mantle was allowed to burn until it turned into a white ash. Once turned into a white ash, the mantle would be fragile and one had to ensure that it was not touched or bumped, or it would break.
The next step was to find the pump handle and turn it to the left a turn or two. This would unlock the valve so air can flow through it. You would then start pumping, give it 30-40 full strokes. This will build up air pressure inside the tank . After pumping is complete, turn the valve to the right until it closes all the way and the lamp should start to glow. It is a very bright lamp. The pressure did not last the whole evening and one had to regularly pump the lamp to keep it alight.
Tabli
The tabli was a small table located in the kitchen or just outside the kitchen next to the bay, on which the pots and plates were kept. It did not have a solid top but had chicken instead. This allowed for airing and draining of washed cooking utensils and cutlery. It is worth noting that traditionally no cooking utensils or cutlery were wiped dry . They were all air-dried.
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